Those are the two hidden gems in Greece that I recommend wholeheartedly
Secret Greek places that have it all: why Greece is always a good idea and where you should stay for a rejuvenating holiday. #88
We’ve just returned from our late summer holiday relaxed and re-energised. Due to Mr Big’s work, the Olympics (my company is a sponsor and I was managing the hospitality and internal activation program for the UK), and Mademoiselle’s first festival, we couldn’t really go at the end of July and begining of August as we usually do. We ended up leaving on August 15th, which for many French usually marks the end of the holidays, and spending a bit more than two weeks mostly in Greece and then in Provence.
In Greece, we stayed for a few days in Naxos and then returned to Koufonissi, at one of my most favourite places. It was my seventh trip to Greece and each time I marvel at the wonderful weather, hospitality, and scenery. You can’t help to relax there.
In this newsletter, I list those two hidden gems that are worth a trip alone. And you can read other reviews or tips about Greece on the blog.
I really needed that holiday. For the whole of 2024 so far, I had to envision multiple scenarios of what could be. Whether it was for my career, when I applied for several jobs, for our purchase of a vacation home, or for the next step for Mademoiselle, visiting universities, I had to imagine each time if it would be the right choice, consider the pros and cons, and feel excited or worried. Those are many moving parts that have yet to stabilize. This is also why I stopped writing here as there was too much going on.
So doing nothing for two weeks, putting all those questions to the side and just contemplating a beautiful valley, the sea or the countryside did me a lot of good.
I hope you had a similar reenergising holiday. And since we now have to dream of the next one, hopefully my reviews and finds will be helpful.
Ayiopetra Naxos review
Ayiopetra is a wonderful hideaway in the center of Naxos. It’s only 25 minutes from the airport or the port, in Sagri, a small village in the centre of the island, a good base to explore all what they island has to offer.
As you arrive, Dimitri or Tonya, the owners, greet you in the lovely courtyard. They offer you local drinks and explain the history of the place along with what you're eating and drinking. As a welcome gesture, they provide a small lunch, which in our case was a delicious cheese quiche, accompanied by a glass of wine and a simple tomato salad, all sourced from local producers on their own farm.
Tonya is a former head of Elle Decoration in Greece, and her son, Dimitri, is a scenographer and theater director with an amazing artistic touch. This artistic influence makes the entire place absolutely beautiful.
The first thing to note is that Ayiopetra is set on a hill with a magnificent view of a valley r. In the valley, you can see paths, olive trees, and a few scattered houses. In the distance, but not very far away, is the famous temple of Demeter, an ancient temple. Demeter explained to me that it was only discovered in the fifties and has been excavated and opened to the public since around the year 2000. So, it is quite recent.
Every morning, when you wake up from your terrace, you are greeted by the inspiring view of the temple.
To create this beautiful retreat, Tonya and Dimitry first selected a renowned architect known for designing museums in Greece. Dimitri explained to me that it took them five years. This lengthy process was due to their commitment to using only local stones for the construction, which required time and effort to source and prepare. It was truly a labor of love.
After that, they furnished the space with carefully chosen design pieces as well as some antique furniture they found themselves or that belonged to their family, like this majestic chest of drawers in the dining room. Each piece is simple enough not to overwhelm the basic charm of the houses, which are primarily constructed from local stones.
Ayiopetra consists of only five ‘houses‘, meaning each room is essentially a small house. Upon entering, you find a bedroom, a bathroom, a living room with a kitchenette area, and an outdoor space. The rooms vary in size, but all offer ample space for guests.
We stayed in room 5, while Zoe occupied room 3, and both accommodations were delightful. On paper, room 3 is cheaper than room 5, but we found it to be slightly smaller. We actually preferred the more intimate and protected outdoor space she had. It’s lower down on the hil so if you have troubles with stairs, it’s better to go with rooms 1 to 3 but in any case, you can't go wrong with any room choice.
What is really striking here is the spirit and vibe that Dimitri and Tonya want to create, and they are very successful at it. They want Ayiopetra to truly reflect their love for this island. Tonya inherited the land from her grandmother and when managing the hotel during the summer, Dimitri and Tonya stay her small house in the village so they really have deep roots in this place, even though they live between Athens and Naxos. They want everyone who visits to experience the island, the local specialties, their way of life, the sense of pace, and the enjoyment of nature.
I've talked before about the fact that Dimitri is a sennographer, and that sense of show, in a very subtle and understated way, is felt in everything. For instance, in the bedroom, you are given lovely slippers that fit like silk. Branches of rosemary or lavender are delicately placed in the bathroom on an old table. The same attention to detail is evident when they serve food; they scatter a few herbs here and there in a very artistic way, enhancing the whole experience.
Ayopetra is first and foremost a place where you sleep, rest, and meditate if you wish. It doesn’t have a restaurant per se but something even better: Tonya’s home made food. You need to let them know a day before if you want to have diner. And you should as all is absolutely delicious, using all local produce.
They explain each dish to you, and the portions are very generous. The cost ranges between €45 to €55 per person. This includes a small aperitif or starter, a starter, a main course, and a dessert. Drinks are purchased separately.
The first time we had a mini starter of fresh figs from the garden with some Naxos cheese and a few peanuts, beautifully presented with touches of herbs on top. The real starter was a salad of tomatoes, watermelon, and feta with a hint of Tabasco sauce. Although I am not a big fan of watermelon, this dish was really tasty. The side salad was fresh and generous, served in a large bowl.
Our main course was moussaka, which Tonya, the owner, adds her unique touch to. Instead of frying the eggplant, she grills it, and instead of using regular potatoes, she opts for sweet potatoes, making the moussaka much lighter. It was delicious. The dessert was semolina cake, or semiloma; I can't quite remember the name, but it was an orange cake.
The breakfast is wonderful. It’s like bringing a whole breakfast buffet to your table, but they serve it dish by dish, area by area. They explain where everything comes from, which is all local. You can enjoy some fresh food, juice, and coffee or tea. They offered me a Greek tea vibrant with fresh herbs which was really good.
Then comes a selection of bread and breadsticks, along with butter from Naxos. All the marmalade and jams are homemade by Tonya. There are fig, plum, apricot, lemon, and blackberry varieties, as well as local honey. The marmalade is all delicious, and you can purchase them from the shop. They also offer an egg dish and some fresh fruit. Each morning we had a coddled egg. Coddled eggs are very much like poached eggs, except that the egg is cooked inside the coddler. The egg(s) are broken into the buttered coddler, and seasonings are added, if desired. The coddler is then closed with the lid and partially immersed in boiling water for a few minutes. It's delicious as is all the breakfast which really make you taste the whole island.
After such a feast, you are ready to go and explore the island or rest by the pool.
The pool overlooks the valley and offers wonderful views in the morning and evening. It is fully exposed, but there are loungers with umbrellas and some day beds, creating a very peaceful and quiet atmosphere. The pool measures approximately 16 by 4.5 meters. It was mentioned that it is heated; however, we were not sure if it was during our stay, but it was refreshing. It feels like there is a kind of countercurrent for swimming, though that might just be my impression. The environment is very nice, peaceful, and quiet. If you spend the afternoon there, Dimitry will kindly come around to ask if you would like a drink. I recommend the homemade lemonade, which is very tasty and fresh.
What we really loved about Ayiopetra is that, being inland and having a wonderful view of the hills, you can enjoy the best of the island while also experiencing quiet and peace. You are a short drive away from the beaches on the West Coast, approximately half an hour from two very picturesque villages Filoti and Apeirantheos. It takes a bit longer to reach the East Coast, which we really liked because it was wild and with not many people at all, which is quite a rarity in August!
Naxos has a lot to offer. We have only begun to discover it, and I believe it would be worth a return visit. There are many areas, numerous beaches, and many undiscovered parts of the island. It is a very large island, so you will never feel bored there. We really liked Naxos because it did not feel as over-touristy as other islands. Dimitri explained to us that it is an island where many people do not rely on tourism, which is a significant difference from other Cycladic Islands. They have many builders, carpenters, and farmers, and the people of Naxos often go to help build and assist on other islands around the Cyclades.
It is truly a wonderful place to visit and very easy to access. There are flights and ferries available, and you can explore some smaller islands from there, one of which is our very favorite, Koufonisi, as I have mentioned before.
And if you go to Naxos, the only place to stay at, with top marks in my book, is definitely Ayiopetra.
Eros Keros, Koufonissi
We couldn’t wait to return to Eros Keros, this most wonderful place in Koufonissi. Koufonissi is one of the small islands in the south of Naxos. It’s small and usually not too busy except in August where I must say it was a bit too crowded on the beaches for my liking.
However, if you manage your schedule correctly, it’s really blissful. The key is to get there early in the morning and then spend the rest of the day by the pool reading before returning at the end of the afternoon. Off season of course you could enjoy the crystal clear waters and the warmth of the sea with less people on the beach.
It’s an easy journey from Naxos via the ferry. It’s only 40 minutes with the high speed one and about 2 hours with a normal one. I really like ferries, the ballet of departures and arrivals is always fascinating. The efficiency at which they board and disembark hundreds of people and cars is really impressive. They shout, they push but ultimately they get you all on board, the bridge lift, the siren sings and off the massive ferry go on the quiet and blue waters.
The other option is to ask Andrea, Anita’s son to pick you up on his boat. You would need to get to a different smaller port and from there he whisks you away in about 35 minutes on a very fast rib boat which is both confortable and exhilarating!
Anyway, when you arrive, you have lots to enjoy. I detailed it all in my previous review so today I’ll only add a few more images to give you an idea of the beauty and relaxation of the place. One big tip for me: do book an excursion with Andrea, it’s a fabulous way to spend a day.
