My personal guide to authentic hotels and restaurants in Nouvelle Aquitaine
Recommended places to stay and to eat between Bordeaux and Ile de Ré #43
This week, I’m giving you a short itinerary in the West of France with a few tips of where to eat and stay.
I went there for a family reunion at the weekend in Vendée, where my dad side of the family is from. I had planned to go by train and stop in Paris to see some friends but the strikes decided otherwise.
As a result, I had to take a very early flight on Thursday morning to Bordeaux. I got up at 4:15, left the house at 4:45 but was in Bordeaux and connected to my office at 10 am London time which was perfect. I do feel lucky to have a company which is so flexible in terms of where and when you work.
Travel is so wonderful when things went smoothly. That morning, it felt like Wonder Woman seamlessly transporting myself to another destination in a flash.
As I write to you now on Sunday afternoon, the situation is more Mike Horn slowly making his way across the channel. I am seating in the departure lounge in Bordeaux and my plane is already delayed by nearly 2h. The same flight had a 3h30 delay yesterday so I am not hopeful.
Still, it was all worth it. Me and my family had a lovely time reminiscing and chatting about life, death, time, children, happiness, wisdom, getting old, appreciating every little moment in life and more…
So if you find yourself between Bordeaux and La Rochelle, here are my itinerary and recommended addresses.
Bordeaux
Where to stay
Budget option – Jost Bordeaux
It’s a few minutes’ walk from the train station and is a coworking space as well as a hostel. You can sleep in a dormitory for around 50 euros or get a single bedroom for 105 euros. There’s a cool atmosphere but beware that there is still lots of works going round the station in Bordeaux now as they redevelop the area. Check latest prices and availability
Mid range – Mamma Shelter
Very central and with an ultra cool common area where they host epic brunches on Sunday mornings. I last stayed there a few years ago. Read my review here.
Luxury – Saint James
You have to go slightly outside of Bordeaux for this one but there is a great view of Bordeaux at night. The gastronomic restaurant is where I celebrated my fiftieh birthday. The gastronomic restaurant has a lovely setting under the trees in the summer and the pool is also a welcome oasis. The bedrooms would probably need to be updated now but the innovative architecture remains. Read my full review.
I also listed a few other options here and here.
Where to eat
I fully rely on my brother, who works and lives there half of the week, for taking me to good places. Here are two we tried recently.
Yeled
A really interesting option if you are vegetarian and like a party atmosphere. The restaurant wants guests to live an experience with three key moments – but you can go only for one of those: drinks at the bar from 19:00 with some very inventive cocktails, diner with a selection of only vegetarian or fish dish, and then later one party time! I thought the food was really good and the atmosphere fun but it’s not the place where to have a quiet conversation!
L'Atelier des Faures
The second restaurant is of the bistronomic category, where chefs play with the codes of the traditional French bistro and adopt a more creative approach. This one is particularly friendly to special diets as most of their dishes are gluten-free, there are many vegetarian options and they can even suggestion vegan ones. The wine pairing was really interesting and some of the dishes were delicious.
Charente-maritime
I don’t have a specific recommendation for a hotel today – although there are several I identified and there are all on the map, which paid subscribers get access to.
But I really wanted to highlight a terrific little local restaurant where we stopped en route to Ile de Ré.
Le Rev Goch in Marans
Marans is a small town in the Charente Maritime which initially appeared a bit sad when we drove through it. However get towards the bridge and you’ll discover the Canal of Marans which connects the town to La Rochelle. On the banks of it, there are a few restaurants and this one caught my attention as it promised home made food. And indeed it was home made and really delicious if you like simple traditional and generous French food. Steak, home made fries, delicious vegetables gratin (lots of cream!), big portions. It really brought my family and I back to our childhood. No frills but great classic French local bistro experience.
No website but here is the address and phone number. It is recommended to book ahead during the summer.
3 Quai Maréchal Joffre, 17230 Marans 09 51 63 14 56
Ile de Ré
Where to stay
If you’ve been reading my blog for a few years, you’ll know that it’s an island that I recommend, along with two more secret ones that you should really try.
Le Sénéchal, Ars en Ré
While there are many B&Bs and of course weekly rentals if you stay for the summer, I always go back to Le Sénéchal, in Ars en Ré, which was the first “boutique hotel “in France. 25 years later, it still oozes charm and comfort. Rooms are not big but pretty and you can even enjoy a heated pool. They also have options for small houses or flats to rent in the summer with hotel services. You can read my full review and watch a video tour.
Where to eat
As I go back, I’ll recommend you more restaurants. The one that I teased on Instagram and where we had diner last night is Le Café du Commerce. It has lots of options, Mexican, galettes, burgers etc but you mostly come here for either the view of the harbour or the ambiance, with a really typical French buzz. Details.
Hope you enjoyed that little trip to France.